In late July and early August, budding can still be carried out, although the best time for this is the second half of July. Moreover, it should be noted that if budding is done for the sake of obtaining a seedling, then it is better to perform it at a height of 5 to 15 cm from the ground.
Budding It is done as follows: first, a T-shaped incision about 3 cm long is made with a grafting knife on the stem of the stock (seedling or layering of a weak stock). Then a cutting is cut from the tree of the desired variety - the middle part of the growth of the current year. A scutellum is cut from this cutting - a strip of bark with a bud and leaf petiole in the middle, also about 3 cm long.
After that, the rootstock bark should be slightly separated with a grafting knife and immediately insert the scion shield (of the desired variety) into the T-shaped incision, holding it by the leaf petiole. After that, coat with pitch and wrap with foil, better than PVC. I draw your attention to the fact that if you first cut off the flap, and then make an incision in the rootstock, then the cambium on the flap may oxidize during this time.
You should feed both garden strawberries and fruit trees. Strawberries can be fed in different ways.
First option: scatter 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate for each square meter, followed by incorporation of fertilizers into the soil.
Second option - feed with slurry with the addition of phosphorus and potassium. To do this, add 1.5 cups of ash and 60 g of simple or 30 g of double superphosphate to the slurry barrel to the manure bucket, let it brew (up to 3 days) and pour about 1 liter under the bush. To simplify feeding, some recommend watering in the furrows.
The third option - apply AVA fertilizer 3-5 g per bush (followed by loosening into the soil), if it was not applied during planting.
In the first and third options, it is advisable to carry out foliar feeding with nitrogen - spray the leaves with a 0.3% urea solution.
At this time, flower buds are also laid in fruit trees, which should also be sprayed with a urea solution. It is most advisable to carry out such feeding in fruitful years, especially in varieties with a strong frequency of fruiting, when a lot of nutrition is spent on the growth of fruits.
For fruit trees, it is also advisable to carry out phosphorus-potassium fertilizing both to increase the yield of the next year and to increase the winter hardiness of trees. For this feeding, it is usually recommended to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate, however, you need to know the dose for each age. I myself apply the AVA fertilizer mixed with ash, the addition of which improved winter hardiness.
Disease and pest control. By August, especially if the "blue spraying" and spraying on pink buds were not carried out in the spring, the leaves and fruits of apple and pear trees may be affected by scab. On the leaves, it appears as olive spots. For prophylaxis with a weak degree of damage, immunity inducers (immunocytophyte and others), as well as biological products (Planriz, Agat-25K, Baikal EM-1) can be recommended.
In case of severe damage, sprinkle with a solution of the drug Skor (up to 4 treatments) or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Stone fruit crops are often affected by clusterosporiosis (perforated spot). With this disease, spots with a brown border are formed on the leaves, the middle of which then falls out. With a weak development of the disease, the above biological products will help, with a strong lesion, it is worth spraying with a Bordeaux mixture.
Fruit trees, such as apple trees, are damaged by many types of pests. Various types of aphids, caterpillars of apple moth and hawthorn can harm the leaves. Fruits can be damaged by the codling moth and rose moth. Against aphids, hawthorn and moths, you can spray Fitoverm - a biological product with high efficiency, as well as actellik and Fufanon (analog of karbofos). Biological products Lepidocid and Bitoxibacillin can also be used against caterpillars.
By August, many plants are infected. During growth and ripening, the berries of garden strawberries can be affected by gray rot. To prevent this disease, the soil is usually mulched with straw, peat, black film, powdered with ash or sprayed with a suspension of Fundazol or a solution of Baikal EM-1. At the first signs of the disease, they are sprayed with solutions of biological products (Fitosporin, Baikal EM-1).
After harvesting, it is necessary to remove the mustache, dead and severely diseased leaves. If there are dark brown spots on the leaves (this means that the plants are sick with brown spot), sprinkle the plants with a solution of the biological product Planriz or Fitosporin. If the bushes are very sick, cut off the foliage and sprinkle with Bordeaux mixture.
August is also the time for harvesting fruits from summer varieties of apple and other fruit crops.
If you do not know what summer varieties you have, focus on the color change of the fruit. Some gardeners harvest other varieties as well, but this is a serious mistake, since the early harvest of autumn and winter varieties is small and will not be able to ripen to the end, and as a result, they will not have the typical taste for this variety.
1 - correct,
2 - high (incorrect),
3 - deep (wrong).
The end of August is a good time to plant all kinds of strawberry whiskers.
It is better to plant them in places where strawberries have not grown for the last 2-3 years.
Good precursors include lettuce, spinach, dill, parsley, radishes, onions, garlic, carrots, beetroot, early cabbage, and legumes.
After clearing weeds, apply 4-10 kg / m² of humus or rotted manure (depending on soil fertility), 30-40 g / m² of superphosphate and 15-20 g / m² of potassium sulfate or 100-200 g / m² of ash, while you need to add 3-5 g of AVA fertilizer granules to the holes.
It is better to plant a mustache in a row after 20-25 cm.
Until the ground is frozen, determine the number of spring plantings in advance and prepare the soil mixture for future seedlings. Collect fertile soil from an uninfected area and add superphosphate to it (at the rate of 1 tablespoon fertilizer per bucket of soil). Add peat, ash, lime or sawdust to the substrate if necessary. The soil harvested in the fall can be stored in wooden containers in the basement or cellar.
As you can see, in October, a knowledgeable gardener on the site is full of worries. Take the time to carefully take care of the site, the greenhouse and the remaining plants - winter is just around the corner!
A familiar situation: a gardener buys a seedling, and the seller advises taking another one, of a different variety, as a pollinator, otherwise, they say, do not expect a harvest.
This is partly true, very many plants in the garden will not be able to fully express themselves if you plant them alone.
But you shouldn't buy everything that the seller advises right away.
A suitable pollinator (and more than one) can grow in an adjacent area, and it is not necessary to plant it on your own.
It has long been known that the more varieties grow nearby, the better and more stable the yields.
And when the neighbors do not have suitable trees, and they do not have room for a great variety, grafting the branches of other varieties into the crown will help out.
In extreme cases, there is such a technique: flowering twigs of a different variety are tied to the crown of a flowering tree, placed in a vessel with water.
For cross-pollination to occur, varieties must bloom at about the same time. Varieties of early flowering period and middle or middle and late will be well pollinated, but early and late ones may not "meet".
But do not confuse the flowering time with the ripening time of the fruit. Early-ripening varieties do not always bloom early, and late-ripening ones - late (although many varieties have such a connection). The flowering time may shift depending on the weather. For example, in a fast and warm spring, many varieties bloom at the same time.
Plum does not bear fruit for various reasons. The gardener needs to find out and eliminate them. The tree is sensitive to frost. If it does not bloom in any of the neighbors, the weather conditions are to blame. But if it does not bloom in only one area, then the reasons are individual.
Plum blossoms start from April to May, depending on the region. In April, flowering begins in the southern regions, in the middle lane - in May. The early varieties begin to bloom earlier, the later ones are a little late.
Landscape designers use shrubs to decorate alleys and paths, create spectacular hedges from low varieties. The plant is suitable for creating a Japanese-style landscape.
Juicy green plum leaves delight the eye all summer long. If the variety is fruitful, in August the plum looks like a Christmas tree, hung with garlands.
The plum blossom is of unrivaled beauty. Luxurious flower buds of 5 petals ranging from white to pale pink create a dreamlike atmosphere. Flowers appear before leaves, are arranged singly or in bouquets of 2-3 petals. Flowering lasts 9-11 days, ends with the appearance of the first leaves.
Sometimes a plum after winter may not start flowering, the buds that have tied up die due to spring frosts and fall off before they bloom. The plum does not bloom if all the buds have died, so there is no need to wait for the harvest.
A barren bloom on a plum means that there were flowers, but the fruits did not set. The reasons for poor flowering or large amounts of barren flowers will be discussed below.
Pollination occurs when pollen from the stamens of some flowers enters the pistil of others. Plums are pollinated by special pollinating varieties. Bees and other insects, wind carry pollen. Each variety has its own pollinator. To find out which one is needed, you need to know exactly which variety grows in the garden.
If the plum is already growing, but the variety is unknown, then you can try to plant a number of universal varieties that may fit. These varieties include, for example, Red early ripening.
A single plum will bear fruit if it is self-fertile. A non-self-fertile plum needs steam for fruiting.
The most popular varieties of self-fertile plums:
If the plum does not bear fruit every year, the most common reason is that a non-self-pollinating variety grows in the garden. Most of the 2000 known species are sterile varieties. If the plum does not bear fruit, you should plant a pollinator tree or graft branches from it.
The yellow plum does not bear fruit if pollination has not occurred. To attract bees and insects, it is sprayed with a solution of honey or sugar.
The distance between the plums for pollination should be 10–20 meters; over long distances, pollination may not take place. It is not worth planting closer than 10 meters, the trees do not like to touch the crowns.
In cold or rainy weather, bees and insects do not fly, pollination may not take place. To remedy the situation, artificial plum pollination is used.
Collect pollen from the flowers of one tree, apply it with a cotton swab or a small brush to the flowers of another tree. The process is long and laborious, but it pays off.
Manual pollination of garden plums will allow to get fruits in August.
Plum bears fruit for 4-5 years after planting, if all care conditions are met. Early-growing varieties can yield a crop for 2-3 years, late species - for 6-7 years.
Plum fruiting period is on average 10-15 years. There will be good yields if different varieties grow nearby. Plum does not yield if the tree is old.
Pests can cause significant damage to fruits, more details are written below.
There are no fruits on the plum, all plums have fallen to the ground - a very common situation. A carrion occurs when the tree is unable to provide the ripening fruits with the necessary nutrition and keep them on the branch until ripening.
There is no fruit on the yellow plum for the same reasons as on other varieties.
The main reasons why the plum does not bloom:
The yellow plum does not bloom for the same reasons as other varieties.
Abundant flowering is not a guarantee of a good harvest. Plum blossoms, but does not bear fruit because of the barren flowers. Such a flower will bloom in the spring, but will not bear fruit. Barren flowers can occur if the flower buds are slightly frozen. Inside the petal of frozen flowers is black, there are no pistils or stamens. Experienced gardeners remove barren flowers so they don't interfere with healthy flowers.
You can make the plum bear fruit every year, provided that the variety is self-pollinating or pollinating varieties grow next to it. If there are no pollinators, artificial pollination should be done.
You can make the plum bear fruit by increasing the number of bees. In the USA, for example, there is a nomadic apiary service for gardeners. During the flowering period, beekeepers bring hives to the garden, after flowering they are taken away.
The bees are actively pollinating plums, and in August, gardeners get a rich harvest. Beekeepers receive half of their annual income not from the sale of honey, but from the rent of hives by gardeners.
Bees help gardeners to avoid the situation when the plum is in bloom but there is no fruit.
In 2011, the Research Institute of Beekeeping of the Russian Agricultural Academy conducted experiments to study the effect of pollination by bees on the flowers of fruit trees.
This table shows that the yield increased for non-self-fertile trees. Plum has one of the best results, its yield increased 11 times.
The plum can freeze buds, branches, trunk, roots. If the plum is frozen, different methods of revitalization are not very effective, prevention throughout the year gives the best result. Freezing flower buds can be warmed by fumigating with smoke.
Frost-damaged branches can no longer be saved; after the buds appear in early spring, they must be cut to a healthy place. Cracks on the trunk of a tree appear from sunburn and sudden temperature changes, they are covered with garden pitch.
To prevent sunburn, the tree trunk is whitewashed with a solution of lime.
If the climate is mild, but the plum has dried up after winter, it is possible that it grew in a low-lying area, where cold air constantly stagnates in winter.
Freezing of the roots leads to the death of the entire tree. We need to break the branch. If the color inside is orange, then it is no longer possible to reanimate the plum after winter.
The following actions will help to revive the plum after winter:
Plum after winter does not bloom if there was no proper care throughout the season.
The plum does not bear fruit for the following reasons:
With the lunar calendar at hand, you will always be aware of which phase of the moon has come and will be able to better plan sowing and other plant-related activities.
Favorable days for sowing seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other vegetable crops are 1, 5, 7, 10-12, 15-16, 2Z-24, March 28-29.
Good days for sowing seedlings of annual and perennial flowers are March 10-16, 19-20, 25-29.
In order not to harm the crops, it is better to find out in advance which days are suitable for interacting with the plantings, and when it is better to refrain from carrying out certain work. According to astrologers, in March, the following numbers will be favorable for sowing most vegetables and flower crops: 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 23, 24.
If you do work related to gardening on unfavorable days, it is possible that there may be stunted growth, decay of roots, and a violation of the energy balance of plants. It is forbidden to sow on March 5, 6, 7, 21.
The monthly cycle of the night star includes several states:
The influence of the earthly satellite also depends on which constellation of the zodiac the moon passes through in the firmament.
In the phase of the new moon and full moon, it is better not to disturb the plants, on these days the crops are especially vulnerable. If you ignore the recommendations and sow or plant in one of these phases, the plants will give poor growth, develop poorly, and begin to hurt. On a full moon, only top dressing is allowed. The roots at this stage of the lunar cycle have good absorbency.
On the days of the waning moon, the outflow of juices to the root system occurs, and the vegetative part is in a kind of stagnation. It is useless to spray plants on the leaf in order to fertilize them, there will be no effect. But root dressing will bring maximum benefit.
The phase of the defective moon allows pruning and pinching of shoots, treatment from pests. This stage of the lunar cycle favors the planting of root crops developing in the underground part. Planting potatoes, onions, root celery will also be successful.
Landing will give the best results if the Moon is in a fertile sign. There are several such constellations in the zodiac circle:
Signs such as Aries, Leo, Sagittarius, Aquarius are unsuitable for seeding and planting. Adhere to the instructions of the lunar calendar when planning work.
Distribute the growth evenly over the trellis, remove stepchildren, leaves in the area of bunches when thickening, i.e. create all the conditions for better ventilation of the bunches.
Harvesting of canteens, universal and technical varieties is carried out.
Bunches of medium and late grades are placed for storage in prepared rooms, refrigerators.
Grapes are dried, juice, preserves, marinades, table wine, etc. are made.
In the areas of the covering culture, they begin pruning bushes, harvesting cuttings, digging out seedlings and laying them for storage.
In wet weather and favorable conditions for the development of diseases, they increase the protection of plants.
When signs of gray rot appear on the bunches, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water). It is often no longer possible to use other drugs, because the period of their decay is longer than the days left before the removal of the bunches. A double spraying can be carried out for the purpose of prevention with copper sulfate: 15-20 g per 10 liters of water (without lime) - on leaves and bunches. A solution of potassium iodide is also used: 2 g per 10 liters of water. You can use a baking soda solution: 80g per 10L of water.
In hot weather, when the bushes do not have enough moisture (the leaves wilt slightly in the middle of the day), moderate watering is carried out with the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (5-10 g per 10 liters of water).
Deep autumn digging is carried out with the simultaneous introduction of organic fertilizers (if the time has come). In some areas, they are already removing the vine from the trellis and covering the bushes for the winter, paying special attention to the reliable shelter of young vineyards.
They are repairing an existing one or installing a new trellis, pulling wires.
Continue tillage and spraying against mildew.
Since about mid-September, a fight has been conducted against the autumn form of oidium. Appearing in the fall, it covers the upper side of the leaves with a continuous thin web of mycelium. Brown spots are visible on the shoots. For the development of this form of the disease, temperatures of + 10 + 17 degrees are favorable. Air humidity does not have a decisive effect on the degree of leaf damage. At lower temperatures, the autumn form of oidium develops insignificantly. Her attacks are also weakened when the daytime temperature rises to +30 degrees.
New catalog for TOMATO has been uploaded. FROM NOVEMBER 2020 TO FEBRUARY 2021 I am sending seeds to:
In October, I do grape pruning. Grape cuttings will be sent from October 10 to November 1.
Make your order by November 1, 2020.
Attention! The number of varieties is limited. Order as early as possible!
My name is Tamara Yashchenko, for more than 15 years I have been professionally growing grapes on my site in the city of Biysk, Altai Territory.
For the last nine years I have been holding the position of Deputy Chairman of the Center for Siberian Viticulture, I participate in international exhibitions and conferences, wrote a book and took off
4-hour educational film about growing grapes in harsh climatic conditions "Grapes grow in Siberia." , author of numerous publications and articles.
Growing grapes is not just a hobby for me, but the main business of my life at the moment. It is interesting for me to conduct experiments and experiments to improve the quality of varieties, to try new ones, to select the best ones. Read more about me here.
The intensity of gardening work in August is growing - you need to harvest, collect falling leaves, stir up compost, make the first autumn fertilizing, tie up the vine, mow strawberry bushes, start sowing perennials in winter. And this is not a complete list of urgent work in the garden and in the garden in August - you need to have time to redo a lot of more important things until the autumn storm comes.